Victoria Falls has been worth it, believe it or not—even 60 hours of travel! I’m here during high water season, in fact perhaps the highest. The Falls are gushing with literally tons of water, and it’s a spectacular sight to see. I arrived late Monday night, around midnight, to Jollyboys Backpackers Lodge—one of the cleanest backpacker places I’ve seen that has a great casual atmosphere complete with a sunken pillow lounge and loft and landscaped pool and picnic tables near the bar. I had met a Zimbabwean, Paul, on the bus to Lusaka who helped me find a bus to Livingstone as he was heading in the same direction, and after we both checked into the 16 bed dorm and hung out with some of the other guests—Canadians, American, Brits.
The next day I was up early and ready to catch the free shuttle to the Falls which are about 10 km outside of Livingstone. Paul gave me a guide of the Zambian side of the Falls which he had been to once before, and it’s courtesy of him that I have all these photos of myself in front of the falls. I got soaked to the bone—it was like being in pouring rain as the mighty falls rained down on the slippery footbridge and path. I’m continually amazing by how laidback things are in Africa—never, I mean never, would such simple railings (or lack there of in some spots) be in place at such high risk areas. After hiking around the national park for a few hours, Paul headed to the Zimbabwean border and I headed back to Jollyboys to book a few extravagant activities—hey, I’m only in Vic Fall once (actually I already have plans for that not to be true!).
A friend had told me I must, absolutely MUST, go on a microlight above Vic Falls, a small motorized open-air hang-glider flown by a pilot, as it was “one of the 1000 things to do before you die” according to someone somewhere. They only fly when the weather conditions are fair enough, and in the morning or afternoon with light winds, so it being a lovely day, I went for it and booked for 4pm that day. I was picked up at the hostel and driven to the launch site where there were also helicopter rides available. After signing my life away (per usual), I was rushed outside to board a microlight craft that had just landed from a previous flight. I was introduced to Heiko, the pilot, and allowed a picture with my own camera in front of the craft before it was stored in a pouch on the plane’s side. Cameras aren’t allowed as you could drop it and it could fly back and get wedged in the propeller and well, that’d be the end of that. And to be honest, I was very grateful not to have a camera up there—I was holding on for dear life. A crew member belted me in, put a microphone (connected to the pilot’s) and a helmet on my head, and put down an eye visor. There was no time to be scared really, but had I thought about the whole setup a bit more, I definitely would have been. But all of a sudden, the propeller was revving, we were cruising along the grassy dirt runway, and then we were up, up, and UP. Within a few seconds we were climbing high above the treetops, gaining sweeping views of the Zambezi with Vic Fall’s mists thundering up in the distance. We climbed higher and higher, the wind building and rushing in my ears, and for a moment I looked down and panicked, especially when I noticed that the seatbelt looked like the one on an airplane with that metal flap—I mean really, who feels secure in that?! But then the sheer beauty and awe of my surroundings overcame me and we were heading for the falls, with the zigzagging gorges of Zimbabwe leading out through the green African bush to the horizon on all sides. I know I’ve said this before, but for this there really are not words.
My fifteen minute ride seemed suspended in time but of course in retrospect passed in a flash. We circled the falls again and hovered lower then headed back toward the launch site. Heiko let me take hold of the wing-bar and control the craft (well, not really of course!), but it was an awesome feeling to shift the bar and have the hanger change course. He also pointed out hippos and crocodiles far below. I know I had the biggest smile on my face, and it was still there when we came down for the smooth and light landing. I just couldn’t stop. Another woman had landed and I just started gushing to her. Although you can’t take pictures, there is a camera mounted far out on the tip of the left wing that takes photos of you against the backdrop of the falls. Of course I promised myself I wouldn’t buy them, but once I saw them of course I did! And here they are for your viewing pleasure. Just looking at them gives me the rush all over again. In short, I highly recommend it, the next time you’re in Vic Falls.
Tuesday night I hung out with some Australians at the hostel and took in the Zambia vs. Sudan football match that was part of the Africa Cup—Zambia won 3-0!
On Wednesday morning, I was up early again to catch the shuttle, this time to attend a breakfast at Livingstone Island—another extravagant activity that just seemed too good to pass up. Only problem was that it was pouring rain by the time we started off for the island! The trips to the Island, where Dr. Livingstone first took in the magnificent sight of the Falls, is only accessed by a guided walk in low season, when you can literally walk across the top of the falls and swim in a pool suspended over the edge (see, how can I not go back some day!), or by trips run by the Royal Livingstone, a five-star hotel in the area. A group of 12 of us were shuttled out to the island in about 5 minutes by motorboat, then lead to the front edge near the falls where a lovely white tent was set up for a high-class breakfast. Despite the pouring rain, the Falls were not diminished in the least. If anything, I just felt nature’s awesome power—so much water everywhere! The guide led me and an older British couple out to the edge and pointed over a few rocks a few feet away—“that’s the edge”—um, yes, I can SEE that!!!! We looked off to the left to see the curve of the raging side falls. Then our guide led up over to the other side of the island where he escorted us one by one out to the edge so we could gaze on the face of the main falls. At one point I was instructed to put my arm around his shoulder and leap across a gush of water that flowed over the edge a few meters away instilling another adrenaline rush! He took some frame worthy photos, and then we headed back to towel off and dine on some of the most fantastic eggs benedict I’ve ever had with coffee, scones, and muffins all served with white china, linens, and silver. I felt quite special!
Upon returning to the hotel by motorboat, the rain was still coming down, so I relaxed in the very posh surroundings and gazing out over the Zambezi River. As the weather began to clear up, I headed for the Zimbabwean border, to get yet another view of the Falls from the bridge that spans the river and connects the two countries, add another stamp/country to my passport, and possibly do a gorge swing as had been recommended by the Zimbabwean. I didn’t manage to fit in the gorge swing (next time!) but one of Paul’s friend was able to give me a tour of Vic Falls (the name of the Zimbabwean town) and drive me out for a magnificent view of the Falls from afar.
I feel like I could spend another week here in Vic Falls with all the (pricey) things to do, but transport in Africa being was it is, it’s time for me to find my way to Gaborone, where I will be visiting an old friend from St. Martin’s who is now stationed in Botswana with the US Foreign Service. Wish me luck getting there, I’m sure I will need it.
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