The holidays are fast approaching--although it doesn't quite feel like it here. Sure there are Christmas decorations up at the malls (went up right around Thanksgiving time, just like in the US!), and the rainy season is persisting and keeping a slight chill in the air (okay, maybe 55 degrees--but did you ever imagine Africa could be that cold when it's nearly summer here?!). Perhaps it's that my last few holiday season have been spent in the cold chill of Boston, NY, and DC, but I will never get used to a warm Christmas.
Still things are winding down at work, and by winding down, I mean the Ministry of Health, along with the rest of the Swazi government as a whole and their operations are grinding to a halt. And yet it feels like there's still a huge amount to get done before the end of the year. But somethings may just have to wait, as it would seem that by the end of next week, things will get very quiet in Mbabane--the residence of the government agency offices and those of many of the programs and partner NGOs that work with it--and stay that way until into the first week or two of January.
In the meantime, we are making the last push to create a video presentation to be shown at the final round of the big grant application process, which was started back in August. We have been hosting a videographer from the Netherlands, who has been working to capture footage of Swaziland landscape, culture, and clinics. This will be used to show the donor organization just how big an impact our grant could make on the country and its people living with HIV/AIDS, and in the longer term for people all over the world. This amazing video demonstrates the potential impact that the grant would make possible and keeps us pushing through this final leg of the process!
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Halloween 2K10
After Halloween in Charlottesville, DC, and NYC, those are tough acts to follow. This was my third Halloween abroad—Rome during junior year abroad, Uganda, and I will say, from that small sample, Swazi takes the Halloween cake.
Halloween has become second only to New Years for being a holiday that I like the idea of but loathe in reality—too much buildup, pressure, and expectations that are rarely met. However, after a glorious day, there was still time for costume making and a big (well, at least—or especially—for Swaziland) party that proved to be a very good time.
I started the day off going for a run with a few friends in a game park. Yes, you read that right—running in a game park! There’s a small game park, Mlilwane (pronounced mil-WA-nay), which I actually went to on my first weekend here, and it is only about a 20-minute drive from Mbabane. It’s incredibly beautiful, with a large pond, rolling hills, and wide plains, and because it is spring everything is becoming so vividly green.
There is no large, carnivore game, just nice friendly zebra, impala, warthogs, and wildebeest, so perfectly safe to stroll around. You can take a horse ride or rent a bike as well, which one of my friends did, while the rest of us ran (and walked at times) through the reserve. After about an hour, we headed for the pool. There is a nice, cool pool looking out over the park with a big braai area as well. I will have to plan a party there at some point. We all changed into bathing suits and enjoyed a refreshing swim after the midday run. It was great to do the run and then learn about the free pool because Mlilwane is that it is park of the Wild Card park program that I just signed up for. For approximate $50 a year (I get resident rates because I have a work permit), I get free entry into 80 parks in Swaziland and South Africa (including Kruger!). So I get free entry every time I want to go run among zebra and then jump in a pool? Take that $80 gym membership back in NYC!
Just as we were getting ready to make a move for a late lunch, clouds rolled in and moved us along. We ended up at Boma, a great pizza place, and picked up a few other expats in the area, so that we had a party of 10 for pizza. (Do you get the sense we only travel in packs here? It’s true.) After gobbling down pizza, it was time to head home and construct our costumes—at, ya know, 8pm for an 8pm party. Ah well. We made it to the party just after 10pm. An impressive feat that was only accomplished thanks to the creativity and skill of two other friends who assisted my friend and me who were—wait for it—boxes of wine. Here’s where I must give a shout out to my dear friend, Jess, who premiered this costume several years back—during the early post college years (perhaps a more appropriate time to showcase it). But let me tell you, box of wine crosses borders, and here in Swaziland, it is quite ubiquitous, especially at my beloved Pick n’ Pay grocery store, where the 3-litre Dry Red Wine box set me back E 59.95, or about $9.
And, as an ode to my former, non-SUV gas-guzzling ways, the costume was highly recyclable—I took used boxes from the laboratory warehouse, used calendar pages covered the boxes to give a white background, and Pick n’ Pay plastic bags were split and woven to form the shoulder straps to hold up the box. (However, the sustainability of the costume proved low—it took quite a beating throughout the night.) After cutting, taping, painting, drawing, weaving, and tying, we were finally ready to secure the bags of wine (carefully removed from the box) and attach it to a sling around one shoulder, and then pop the tap and spout out a hole cut in the side of the cardboard box. Finito!
It was a hit. We walked into the party (held at an amazing house a few kilometers out past mine in Pine Valley) and people were amused. Then they saw the full-functionality of the costume and they were blown away. I’m telling you, folks, this is a foolproof costume, what’s not to love? I succeeded in sharing all my wine over the course of the evening, and happily ended the night on the makeshift dance floor, although the cardboard box had called it quits some time earlier. Until next year as a box o’ wine….
Halloween has become second only to New Years for being a holiday that I like the idea of but loathe in reality—too much buildup, pressure, and expectations that are rarely met. However, after a glorious day, there was still time for costume making and a big (well, at least—or especially—for Swaziland) party that proved to be a very good time.
I started the day off going for a run with a few friends in a game park. Yes, you read that right—running in a game park! There’s a small game park, Mlilwane (pronounced mil-WA-nay), which I actually went to on my first weekend here, and it is only about a 20-minute drive from Mbabane. It’s incredibly beautiful, with a large pond, rolling hills, and wide plains, and because it is spring everything is becoming so vividly green.
There is no large, carnivore game, just nice friendly zebra, impala, warthogs, and wildebeest, so perfectly safe to stroll around. You can take a horse ride or rent a bike as well, which one of my friends did, while the rest of us ran (and walked at times) through the reserve. After about an hour, we headed for the pool. There is a nice, cool pool looking out over the park with a big braai area as well. I will have to plan a party there at some point. We all changed into bathing suits and enjoyed a refreshing swim after the midday run. It was great to do the run and then learn about the free pool because Mlilwane is that it is park of the Wild Card park program that I just signed up for. For approximate $50 a year (I get resident rates because I have a work permit), I get free entry into 80 parks in Swaziland and South Africa (including Kruger!). So I get free entry every time I want to go run among zebra and then jump in a pool? Take that $80 gym membership back in NYC!
Just as we were getting ready to make a move for a late lunch, clouds rolled in and moved us along. We ended up at Boma, a great pizza place, and picked up a few other expats in the area, so that we had a party of 10 for pizza. (Do you get the sense we only travel in packs here? It’s true.) After gobbling down pizza, it was time to head home and construct our costumes—at, ya know, 8pm for an 8pm party. Ah well. We made it to the party just after 10pm. An impressive feat that was only accomplished thanks to the creativity and skill of two other friends who assisted my friend and me who were—wait for it—boxes of wine. Here’s where I must give a shout out to my dear friend, Jess, who premiered this costume several years back—during the early post college years (perhaps a more appropriate time to showcase it). But let me tell you, box of wine crosses borders, and here in Swaziland, it is quite ubiquitous, especially at my beloved Pick n’ Pay grocery store, where the 3-litre Dry Red Wine box set me back E 59.95, or about $9.
And, as an ode to my former, non-SUV gas-guzzling ways, the costume was highly recyclable—I took used boxes from the laboratory warehouse, used calendar pages covered the boxes to give a white background, and Pick n’ Pay plastic bags were split and woven to form the shoulder straps to hold up the box. (However, the sustainability of the costume proved low—it took quite a beating throughout the night.) After cutting, taping, painting, drawing, weaving, and tying, we were finally ready to secure the bags of wine (carefully removed from the box) and attach it to a sling around one shoulder, and then pop the tap and spout out a hole cut in the side of the cardboard box. Finito!
It was a hit. We walked into the party (held at an amazing house a few kilometers out past mine in Pine Valley) and people were amused. Then they saw the full-functionality of the costume and they were blown away. I’m telling you, folks, this is a foolproof costume, what’s not to love? I succeeded in sharing all my wine over the course of the evening, and happily ended the night on the makeshift dance floor, although the cardboard box had called it quits some time earlier. Until next year as a box o’ wine….
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Country Fair, Swazi Style
This past weekend was the Simunye Country Fair, and so much of the Swaziland population, including a sizeable chunk of the Mbabane expat community headed east for a weekend of festivities. I had no idea what to expect for a “country fair” in Southern Africa, but I must say that I was impressed. The rides were plentiful and the crowds were lively. I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking, but Friday night featured a popular South African band, Freshly Ground, and Bholowja, a “famous” Swazi musical artist played in the line-up on Saturday night.
But no weekend (nor week) would be complete without some car drama, and indeed there was plenty. Two long-time expats were on their way out after two-year stints with ODI in the UK. Their farewell weekend coincided nicely with the fair, which well over an hours drive from Mbabane anyways, so a weekend stay at a nearby lodge was planed. I know few words in the English language that are often so misconstrued as “nearby” (“soon” may be in the running). The Mlawula Lodge was within the namesake game reserve and just by an entrance gate of a major paved road—sadly, however, the one that gets locked at night. The other entrance is 17 Km north of the lodge cottages, along rutted, bumpy, rocky reserve roads. Now combine that with pitch-black darkness, a lack of intelligible signs beyond “Hippo Pool →”, and you can already guess this story doesn’t end smoothly.
We left the fair grounds a little after 1am, and did not arrive at the lodge until well after 2am. But we were among the lucky ones—well, some of us. Several people had driven their lower clearance cars not realizing that the 17km along a gravel road, as mentioned in the email, meant the treacherous journey that would entail. A few of the lower cars clunked along slowly, while I fell asleep in the passenger seat of a four-wheel drive, only to be awoken at the site of several people from our group pushing their hatchback into the tall grasses in the dark of the night, save for the bright car headlights staring down on us—one of the larger cars ahead had come back to along the narrow path to check on them when the call came in of the broken down car. It wouldn’t start, so we ditched it in the grasses until morning, and all of us (a four-car caravan now turned into 3) pushed onward, exhausted, grumpy, and confused—and anxiously looking for anything that resembled a lodge. Just as someone in the car said it felt like we had definitely gone 17 Km (I would argue it felt like 50, at the pace we had to go), far off we saw some light twinkling, which quickly drew nearer. We had found the lodge—and as we would irritatingly discover the following morning—the other gate.
Some others had arrived, yet some we would find out the next morning, would not be so lucky. There other cars remained circling throughout the darkened park until nearly 4:30am—they could have driven to Mbabane and back in that time. Needless to say, the morning revealed many cranky travelers recounting tales that could out-do each other, and I was one who escaped nearly scot-free (aside from the guilt of not having driven my SUV, but who knew “gravel” meant THAT). However, by late morning, we’d had some coffee, French toast and eggs, and some of the group had departed to get the broken car towed out of the park, and then to play in a basketball tournament held at the fair, while the rest of us lounged the day away, taking in the lovely scenery from the infinity pool. The lodge was completely empty save for our group.
We arrived at the fair in the late afternoon, only to receive the final piece of ridiculous hilarity. The basketball tournament, for which a few of our group had qualified weeks earlier in a starting round, had been canceled. Well, not exactly, of course, because that would be too simple. The organizers had realized too late, that the fair grounds had no basketball court, so they texted players to say the tournament would be held at 10am instead of noon at a nearby location. Only one team showed up, were promptly declared the winners, and the other 8 teams showed up more than a little ticked off a couple hours later.
Just when the fair had me thinking I was back stateside, many of the weekend’s events confirmed the fact that I am very far from home.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
My First Car
I’ll tell you what, if you had bet me a million dollars, I would not think I would buy a car—my first car—in Swaziland. But upon arrival in Mbabane, I quickly came to realize that I would soon need to become a car owner. A scary thought, as well the largest tangible object purchase I’ve ever made. (I know some of my friends are already homeowners, but if you think the idea of committing to a car has me stressing, I can’t even imagine…)
After life in DC, New York, and Boston, I was hard-pressed to give up my public transport ways, until there was no public transport. Enter Swaziland. Although there is “public transport” in the form of kombis (aka the matatus of Uganda), white vans that heave up and down the hills of Mbabane, each uniquely named “Unique” or “Jesus is my homeboy,” there are not the boda-bodas, or mopeds, that sped me around Kampala day in and day our for months. But in terms of general mobility needs, driving to the laboratory and back during work, and getting home after dark, and having any kind of freedom on the weekends, a car is key. And the car market here is relatively steady—there is a constant stream of expats in and out the revolving door, so often one can buy a car and sell it not so many months or years later for about the same price, or so I’m told.
Thus began a long search for the perfect car. And much like the search for the perfect anything in this world, it does not exist. But there are plenty of acceptable options, or so they seem. All I wanted was a sub-par option that will still be in driving existence when I decide to leave and sell it. The options were to go to a dealer and take a chance, get the car checked and hope not to get a lemon, or wait for an expat to sell their car on their way out. The former had me panicked; the latter had me bumming rides for two months. Finally, a Baylor doctor and her husband settled on a job offer short notice, and emailed about two cars on sale. One was automatic—did I want it? Um, no, not really, still don’t. Did I need it? Yes.
I am now the (proud?) owner of a 2000 Honda CRV. Yep, Miss Sustainability bought an SUV, and an old gas guzzling one at that—there’s no hiding it. But that just means if you come visit you will have a nice, lofty ride through the game parks (any takers??). Next up: car valuations, insurance quotes, and mechanic appointments. Oh the joys of car ownership. But after two-months of bumming rides, I’m finally a legitimate Swazi driver. I owe a huge thank you to my co-workers who shuttled me around until now—let the payback or pay-it-forward begin.
After life in DC, New York, and Boston, I was hard-pressed to give up my public transport ways, until there was no public transport. Enter Swaziland. Although there is “public transport” in the form of kombis (aka the matatus of Uganda), white vans that heave up and down the hills of Mbabane, each uniquely named “Unique” or “Jesus is my homeboy,” there are not the boda-bodas, or mopeds, that sped me around Kampala day in and day our for months. But in terms of general mobility needs, driving to the laboratory and back during work, and getting home after dark, and having any kind of freedom on the weekends, a car is key. And the car market here is relatively steady—there is a constant stream of expats in and out the revolving door, so often one can buy a car and sell it not so many months or years later for about the same price, or so I’m told.
Thus began a long search for the perfect car. And much like the search for the perfect anything in this world, it does not exist. But there are plenty of acceptable options, or so they seem. All I wanted was a sub-par option that will still be in driving existence when I decide to leave and sell it. The options were to go to a dealer and take a chance, get the car checked and hope not to get a lemon, or wait for an expat to sell their car on their way out. The former had me panicked; the latter had me bumming rides for two months. Finally, a Baylor doctor and her husband settled on a job offer short notice, and emailed about two cars on sale. One was automatic—did I want it? Um, no, not really, still don’t. Did I need it? Yes.
I am now the (proud?) owner of a 2000 Honda CRV. Yep, Miss Sustainability bought an SUV, and an old gas guzzling one at that—there’s no hiding it. But that just means if you come visit you will have a nice, lofty ride through the game parks (any takers??). Next up: car valuations, insurance quotes, and mechanic appointments. Oh the joys of car ownership. But after two-months of bumming rides, I’m finally a legitimate Swazi driver. I owe a huge thank you to my co-workers who shuttled me around until now—let the payback or pay-it-forward begin.
Friday, October 15, 2010
In support of water...
I had the opportunity to intern at a very cool organization, charity: water, last summer in NYC, working to help raise awareness and funds to bring clean, safe drinking water to the over one billion the world over who lack access. My time there, albeit brief, was a valuable lesson in both the inter-workings of a small, committed start-up (they just turned 4 years old last month!) and the innovative methods that some savvy nonprofits are using to inspire donors and communicate their successes.
In my brief time in Swaziland, I have still encountered that same challenge that nonprofits cannot escape--our goals are tied in no small way to the support of donors around the world. Without donors' generosity, compassion, and support for causes dear to them, this organizations simply could not help the many causes and people they help eveveryday. The world water crisis is a particularly far-reaching cause, in that clean water is the basis for basic human health. Without it, there is little hope for survival. So on this, Blog Action Day 2010, which this year is dedicated to the water crisis, I would like to suggest a worthy organization that is creatively and transparently tackling a daunting task, and that could use your support--http://www.charitywater.org/.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Ultimate?
a) Frisbee b) pain c) good time d) all of the above
I’m tempted to go with "b", but in fact, it did end up being closer to all of the above, with a little embarrassment thrown in for good measure.
In case you’re wondering, no, I’m not good at Frisbee. In fact my game compares similarly to my 5th grade basketball/softball skills, which is to say, not promising. Nevertheless, Frisbee is big here in Swaziland, and it would seem according to the tournament, throughout parts of Southern Africa, and one of the few (only?) organized sports that takes place regularly around town. And mainly, the Swazi team was in need of girls, as teams of 7 play and rules stipulate that you must have 2 girls on the field at all times--so my lackluster skills were still in demand.
The tournament took place in Joburg, with 8 competing teams, and it was no joke. People there are athletes. We played 8 forty minute games over the course of 2 days, and then I had also agreed to be in the ladies’ tourney (why oh why?), which added another game each day—wearing army camouflage and tiaras mind you, of course. Saturday night there was a big party, and we even brought the festivities (and keg) back to the house we were staying in—a huge four bedroom belonging to another former Swazi ex-pat now living in Joburg (and a former UVA Wahoo in fact!).
Needless to say, after a second day of 7am wake-up call and several hours solid of running up and down the field (often attempting defense, often looking like a chicken with my head cut off), I could barely walk. After being dropped off back at my apartment on Sunday night, I promptly eased myself into bed around 8pm, and literally could not get up until this morning, when I proceeded to hobble around getting ready for work, and as I would continue to hobble for the rest of the day.
I’m tempted to go with "b", but in fact, it did end up being closer to all of the above, with a little embarrassment thrown in for good measure.
In case you’re wondering, no, I’m not good at Frisbee. In fact my game compares similarly to my 5th grade basketball/softball skills, which is to say, not promising. Nevertheless, Frisbee is big here in Swaziland, and it would seem according to the tournament, throughout parts of Southern Africa, and one of the few (only?) organized sports that takes place regularly around town. And mainly, the Swazi team was in need of girls, as teams of 7 play and rules stipulate that you must have 2 girls on the field at all times--so my lackluster skills were still in demand.
The tournament took place in Joburg, with 8 competing teams, and it was no joke. People there are athletes. We played 8 forty minute games over the course of 2 days, and then I had also agreed to be in the ladies’ tourney (why oh why?), which added another game each day—wearing army camouflage and tiaras mind you, of course. Saturday night there was a big party, and we even brought the festivities (and keg) back to the house we were staying in—a huge four bedroom belonging to another former Swazi ex-pat now living in Joburg (and a former UVA Wahoo in fact!).
Needless to say, after a second day of 7am wake-up call and several hours solid of running up and down the field (often attempting defense, often looking like a chicken with my head cut off), I could barely walk. After being dropped off back at my apartment on Sunday night, I promptly eased myself into bed around 8pm, and literally could not get up until this morning, when I proceeded to hobble around getting ready for work, and as I would continue to hobble for the rest of the day.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Trade-offs & Good Wishes
I feel very fortunate to have this opportunity to be in Swaziland, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t times I feel acutely aware of all that I’m missing at home. Usually a gchat, Skype session, or good email chain will do the trick in curing some home-longing. But then there are moments where the reality kicks in and I’m reminded that my being in Southern Africa puts me very far away from the people I love and some of the big milestones in their lives. The last few weeks have had quite a few. And while I can’t be there to help celebrate, I’m thinking of all those wonderful friends, and wishing them all the happiness I can from afar.
CONGRATULATIONS to…
Sandy and Daniel Hinchman on the birth of their first child, Daniel Edward “Ward” Hinchman IV! What a cutie--and a little Wahoo in the making! Check out all that hair.
Abby Rotman and her husband, Ben, on their new marriage! Many a Holtonites was there to represent (and drink some champagne?) on my behalf, I’m sure!
Nani Abrams and her soon-to-be husband, Josh! I have no doubt the wedding will be quite the dance party!
CONGRATULATIONS to…
Sandy and Daniel Hinchman on the birth of their first child, Daniel Edward “Ward” Hinchman IV! What a cutie--and a little Wahoo in the making! Check out all that hair.
Abby Rotman and her husband, Ben, on their new marriage! Many a Holtonites was there to represent (and drink some champagne?) on my behalf, I’m sure!
Nani Abrams and her soon-to-be husband, Josh! I have no doubt the wedding will be quite the dance party!
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